Italy is a land of festivals, where ancient traditions meet lively celebrations. From colourful flower parades to sumptuous feasts of local delicacies, these events are a window into the heart of Italian culture. But once in a while, a festival comes along that is, quite literally, snakes and ladders above the rest.
The festival’s origins are a fascinating blend of pagan rituals and Christian devotion. For over 400 years, the people of Cocullo have honoured St. Dominic, believed to protect against snakebites and toothaches (an oddly specific combination). While some festivals stick to flowers or pastries, Cocullo has boldly gone where few dare—into the realm of serpents.
The celebration kicks off weeks in advance, on 19th March, when local serpari (snake charmers) begin catching their slithery participants. Don’t worry—they’re all non-venomous and, thankfully, handled with expertise. The snakes are the stars of the show, but they’re treated with care (though the fang-removal tradition raises an ethical eyebrow).
The festival’s pièce de résistance takes place on the first Thursday in May: a grand procession where a statue of St. Dominic, entwined with live snakes, is paraded through the town. The sight is equal parts awe-inspiring and chilling—a saintly figure cloaked in a writhing snake cape, gliding through cheering crowds.
The procession isn’t just for show. As the snake-covered statue winds its way through the streets, it’s said to bless onlookers and their pets, ensuring protection from snakebites and other earthly woes.
Once the procession ends, the mood in Cocullo shifts to one of festivity. The town square comes alive with laughter, music, and local delicacies. And then comes the grand finale: the ceremonial release of the snakes back into nature. This poignant moment symbolises life’s cyclical beauty, a nod to the festival’s pagan roots.
As night falls, Cocullo bids farewell to the serpentine spectacle with a dazzling fireworks display over the Apennine Mountains. The village returns to its tranquil charm, but for those who’ve experienced the Serpari Festival, the memories are anything but quiet.
Cocullo’s Festa dei Serpari isn’t just a celebration; it’s a glimpse into a world where faith, folklore, and fearless snake-wrangling collide. For those seeking a truly unique cultural experience, this festival offers a story to tell long after the snakes have slithered away.
So, if you find yourself in Italy come May, why not take a trip to Cocullo? After all, how often do you get to see a saint wearing a snakeskin suit—not metaphorically, but literally?